There are 641 castles in Wales. 641. And how many real castles do we have in America? Well certainly not 641, if any. I find this to be really eye opening. I live in a country that seems to me as though it has existed forever because it has been all I have really known. Yes, the history classes in grade school teach you of European history, but the true amazement of it all gets lost in translation, belittled by the pages of a textbook. I have come to find that to truly grasp history – to understand its vast greatness – you have to be among it – feel it and see it. To stand in a castle, an abbey, or a burial ground that dates back thousands upon thousands of years is remarkable, untouchable, and in a lot of ways, unreal. But this weekend, it was real, as we traveled to Cardiff, Wales.
Friday morning, bright and early our adventure began. After showering, eating breakfast and finishing packing, we left the flats at 8:30 am and headed to Paddington Station (only one tube stop away) where we took the 9:15 a.m. train (my first European train rife J to Cardiff, the capital city of Wales. Before piling onto the train I swiped a cookie sample from Millies Cookies and have not tasted a better cookie before in my entire life. Needless to say, I am going back to Paddington to buy a cookie – but I digress. It had been a while since I had been on a train and riding out of the city into the rolling hills of greenery reminded me of classic Hollywood train rides, like in Harry Potter or in the Polar Express – yes, I am referencing children’s movies here, but it had that magical feel knowing we were going on our first trip out of England to a place of legends and medieval roots – a place that I have come to consider really quite majestic.
We arrived at 11:30 a.m and excitedly got off the train ready to encounter this new country. It was just a five-minute walk to our hostel, The River House, which was such a warm and inviting little home. The owners introduced us to their cat named Lola, and were really kind. The hostel had a nice kitchen and the amenities were clean, which was reassuring seeing as I had never stayed at a hostel and I was a bit nervous of how the conditions would be. But it was great, and what was ever greater than the clean sheets and bathrooms was the common room, fully equipped with a flat screen TV and…. drum roll please…. CABLE! It was amazing to channel surf yet again – oh how I missed the feel of the clicker beneath my hand J But no no, I did not watch TV the whole time – we had quite a packed agenda.
After stowing our things up at the third floor in one of the rooms and conquering the very narrow stairs all the way up (quite a welcome work out) we ventured out onto the streets of Cardiff, beneath the beautiful blue sky, sun beaming and temperature just warm enough to leave our jackets back in the room. We first had lunch at this cute mom and pop restaurant called Truffles, which was delicious. The city of Cardiff was like a hopping downtown of any bigger suburb – it was certainly not a city, but it had a great quality about it – lots of little shops and restaurants, clean streets and much more quiet and residential feeling than big London. At Truffles I had a delicious grilled ham and cheese, which I hadn’t had since being here, and that was really good. We polished off our lunch with some amazing chocolate fudge cake with vanilla gelato (I am telling you, for desserts, Europe is where it is at! Everything is AMAZING here….).
Literally across the street from these shops and restaurants was our first sight-seeing stop of the trip – a visit to Cardiff Castle. This beautiful piece of Welch history boasts over 2,000 years of stories and legends. Before we toured, there was a really cheesy multimedia presentation that we sat through, which was hard not to laugh at - it was such a Disney wannabe, and we continued to make fun of it for the rest of the day. It made me miss Disney, which led me to miss the family of course J but was a funny inside joke amongst us and something I will definitely remember.
All nostalgia, however, was quickly replaced by sheer amazement. The spectacular interiors were beautiful – I still cannot get over how detailed and purposefully designed every room was. The rooms had themes – for instance the nursery walls were covered in tiles depicting all the classic fairy tale stories. And what is even more surprising is that this castle – this immense and glorified fortress - was simply a summer home for a family, who at the time, were the wealthiest in the world. Can you even imagine having that much money to build something you were only in eight weeks out of the year?
We looked around, led by a tour guide who had a very strange and awkward demeanor, but we blew past that, simply in awe of our surroundings. To paint a picture (since we were only able to sneak in a couple since there was a no picture rule) the rooms were very Harry Potter-esque, but smaller in size than anything in Hogwarts of course, it just felt very medieval and every wall was elaborately decorated – nothing was plain or understated, and every room was themed. Afterwards, we were able to walk to the grounds checking out a sub-castle that stood on a near hill. We climbed all the way to the top and saw the beautiful views of the Welch countryside, accompanied by two Canadian hockey players we met on the tour, who were also traveling and whose company was a lovely addition to the day J.
After seeing the castle, we took a tour bus one way to the Cardiff Bay. While on the double decker bus (actually, our first, believe it or not) we took tons of pictures of the sights around Cardiff. We were dropped off by this huge silver fountain and explored this really sweet area that was dressed with a carousel, tons of shops and restaurants all bordering the sailboats wading in the sparkling water. We walked around and then ended up eating at Pizza Express, which surprising from the name, is actually a very nice Italian chain here is Europe that makes a delicious salad with chicken and bread sticks and a tasty mustard and balsamic dressing. Dinner was fun because we all sat together as a group (there were eight students, Brooke, Tom and their two kids – which seeing them as a family made me miss mine) and shared stories about life at home or our experience so far. After dinner and waiting for the bus (a little longer than we had expected), we went back to the hostel, got in our pajamas and watched two blessed hours of cable television before going to sleep.
On Saturday morning we woke to a delicious and all-inclusive breakfast. There was bread and four kinds of cereals, coffee, oatmeal, and yogurt! But the best part was the Nutella chocolate hazelnut spread, which, when combined with peanut butter on toast is heavenly. After getting ready and filling our tummies with deliciousness, we met our guide Sir Paul and had a full day on a mini coach, just fit for us twelve for a packed day of exploring the beautiful sights of Wale’s vast and historic countryside and coastal region. First stop was the Dylan Thomas centre, a museum dedicated to the legendary poet and writer.
The museum was set up very modernly in a small room with great displays and artifacts. I knew nothing of Dylan Thomas’s work, so I read the timeline and learned a lot about his life and his influence on poetry and literature – his most known work was the poem “Under Milk Wood.” The large murals outlined how this man, troubled by addiction – a womanizer and alcoholic – but gifted with the ability to eloquently paint a masterpiece with words – came to be and came to die by an unidentified cause at the young age of 39. There was also a special room dedicated to the film that is coming out staring Kiera Knightly and Sienna Miller about Dylan’s life – the trailer looks great, but I am blanking on the name of it now. Regardless, I am definitely going to see it! The museum was a short stop along the way, but surprisingly interesting.
We then made our way down to Gower Peninsula where we walked the beautiful coastal paths of the Swansea bay. We stopped first at an area called Mumbles and then journeyed down the coast by walking along the rocks and cliffs that towered over the ocean below. It was stunning and the weather could not have been more beautiful. We had lunch at this little café that was on a cliff that directly overlooked the coastline. The deserted beach below, sprinkled with a few children running around barefoot, and a couple of adventurous people surfing in the water, was so serene and inviting. At the cafe, which had the greatest views, I had a goat cheese salad, which turned out to just be a hunk of goat cheese, and not so much a salad, but it was still good and then we had an hour or two to venture and explore the beautiful mountains and cliffs that overlooked the sea. It was one of those places that Fit TV would totally film Namaste Yoga or something – meaning it was so tranquil and calming, with the wind blowing and believe it or not, sheep gathering in a small pasture just across the way. It could not have been more humbling and beautiful.
After spending the afternoon by the coast, taking pictures, throwing the Frisbee around with Paul, Tom and the kids Lily and Jack (the 8 and 4 year old kids of Brooke, our faculty advisor – ps: mom, you would have been so proud, I was the only girl who could really throw it thanks to you! You taught me well!) walking around, writing our names in the sand and breathing in the calm, we drove down the very narrow roads to a Neolithic burial chamber. This sounds as though it is going to quite a sight, when in truth it was more like a small pile of rocks forming tombs in the middle of a large field, but the story that bones from over 50 bodies were buried there thousands of years ago as a sacred ritual was surreal to touch. The rocks we saw had been there for over thousands of years (I apologize for the vagueness, but it was hard to remember all the facts). Regardless of the certain amount, to be amongst something that had sustained the test of time transported me back and allowed me to feel truly present with the past.
The final stop of the day was Weobley castle. This was a fortress set up by foreign invaders. It was quite small in comparison to some of the other castles we had seen resting on hillsides along the way, but it was still really neat to explore. It sits on land owned by a farmer, so there were sheep grazing in the terrain below. Again, it was great to see and explore yet another defining characteristic of the rich history of Wales and a great end to the day.
We were back to Cardiff around 6 pm, and parted with Paul, who was a fantastic tour guide, but would be reunited with him in the morning for some more touring. We decided to beat the morning rush by taking evening showers and besides, we were wind blown from the day at the coast. A shower at a hostel is a tight and interesting experience. It was like showering in a tube, barely able to really move around much, but I managed of course, but only after running into walls a bit – all part of the experience I guess.
We then went back into town for dinner, and finally (upon much frustrating searching for something delicious yet affordable) settled on another Italian restaurant (ironic how we keep eating all this Italian food, but the traditional Welch food is only sold in pubs, and by the time we got out for dinner, the pubs weren’t serving food anymore) where I got what was essentially a paper thin calzone stuffed with spinach and ricotta and topped with an alfredo sauce. It was delectable J.
We then walked home and watched some more TV because the nightlife of Wales – where every night is like Halloween – was a bit overwhelming and we were exhausted from the day. It was funny though to see as we were walking home how they dress up in full costume and run around the streets in and out of pubs. I guess the Welch are hard partiers. In fact, Cardiff is apparently one of the more crazy party towns in the UK, which is a shocking statistic if you see it by day. But it was fun to even just witness a bit of the culture of their nightlife.
After watching two episodes of Sex and the City with four random guys - one from Greece, two from Germany and another from Virginia - all staying at the hostel, and all of whom entered the room sadly just a few minutes too late since we had already turned the TV into chick flick central, we went to sleep in our tight room, filled wall to wall with three bunk beds. We went to sleep with a smile on our face though because we had not only had our fill of cable, but also because we made new international friends and their company was really entertaining. They were a lot of fun and really good sports for sticking around to watch our girly TV with us.
Sunday was another early morning. We packed up all of our things, and had another filling breakfast, and then we were back on the bus with Paul and his beloved Welch music (which reminded Laura and I so much of Epcot and Busch Gardens, which we thought was really funny that we would connect it to that). Our first stop was Rhaglan castle, followed by Tintern Abbey, two very beautiful and historic landmarks. There is only so much more I can say about the sights before sounding too redundant and making this post unreadably long (as if it isn’t already), but both were great to see – especially the abbey because it was so detailed and you could just see where the stained glass would have lined the openings bordered in stone and feel the sacredness of the land. We then followed our tour of the abbey with lunch at the Abbey Mill Craft Centre where we had delicious leek and potato soup (which was so good) paired with a generous baguette stuffed with white cheddar cheese and thick meaty bacon (not thin like in America, it was more like ham). It was incredible, and really cheap too, which was great!
We then got back on the bus and arrived at Newport station for 2:14 train back to London arriving in Paddington at 5:00 pm. The train ride was packed, with more stops then on the way down, so we were happy to get back to Warwick Avenue, what we now call home (and so does Duffy, a popular singer who is actually from Wales who wrote a song all about Warwick Avenue that we love!)
So as it turns out, there is so much more to see and do than I could have ever imagined in Wales. Granted, we were not able to see all 641 castles, but our time spent there was so peaceful and full of laughter. To get out of the city, watch Sex and the City, and have an opportunity to miss the city all over again, was all a real blast, and I would definitely suggest a weekend in Wales to any American who needs a bit of a reminder that so much happened before we dropped in.
If you made it this far, you deserve a huge hug – so close your eyes, I am hugging you!
Miss you all so much!
Jenny